Stuart Day 6

Home Sweet Home (on the range!)

Wigwam Village

Artistic graffiti

Insription Rock

Well, after a restful wigwam night, we set off to explore Holbrook, starting out with a chilli-laden breakfast at Jo and Aggie's Cafe. We then went to the old Navajo County Courthouse, now a local museum, the highlight of which is the old cells that were in use until 1976 and feature some extraordinarily artistic graffiti. The museum is just full of, well, stuff. As we arrived, a local schoolteacher pitched up with one of his special needs students, a 19-year-old lad with, among other problems, giganticism. He is 6ft 9 and still growing. He was dusting the exhibits and took on the task of being our personal guide. All very touching. The teacher was just wonderful with him. We then hit the Interstate (very little R66 here) and rolled into New Mexico and into Gallup. A quick stop at the El Rancho Hotel (yes, another one), which is on the National Register of Historic Buildings. It's on R66 and has played host to presidents and film stars by the dozen. Signed photos adorn the walls. We then went on another of our detours, this time south into the Zuni and Navajo Nation Indian Reservations. After crossing the Continental Divide we arrived at the El Morro National Monument Visitors Centre. The ranger outlined the trails and told us that we would have to be back by 1645. Steve confidently told her that their clock was wrong; at this point, we realised that we might have crossed a time zone. Gulp! Anyway, we took the trail to Inscription Rock, a 200-foot high sandstone cliff that has been inscribed by travellers who have passed ever since explorers in the early 1600s. We then ran into Grants, another old rail town with boarded-up shops and businesses. However, we found a Quality Inn at the far end of town, and very nice it is too. A little bit of down time and a chance to catch our breath.
Fact of the Day: if an American asks for your John Hancock, he wants your signature - John Hancock was the last person to sign the Declaration of Independence.